Wednesday 20th September is a prompt start with a lovely breakfast at 7.30am. We then drive the short distance to Ephesus to start exploring the site before 9.0am while it is still cool and before coach parties arrive. There are coach parties but these start from the upper entrance and there aren’t too many of them. We start from the lower entrance which takes us to the harbour street (the harbour has long since silted up, being a major factor in the city’s demise) then onto the theatre (very large, it seated 25,000 people, a tenth of the population, but it has been restored a lot), passing the commercial agora, the Library of Celsus (the iconic building, this is the image normally used to promote the site). We then pass various temples and fountains, the latrines and Scholastica baths along the steep, marbled Curetes street to reach the large state agora. This has a large temple and odeon (which is also rested but. much more intimate space than the huge theatre). On the reverse route back, which is nice to do as we see the buildings again) we take in the most amazing part of the site to my mind, the terraced housing. We only see a couple of other people inside the complex (there is a separate entrance fee for it and it seems to be avoided by the coach parties). There are 62 rooms of various sizes that make up 7 homes. A glass walk way takes up through the terrace as it climbs the hillside; we walk above super mosaics and pass rooms that are almost at their original height with laster decorations intact. Without a doubt it is this housing, the library and the sheer size of the place (with 85% still unearthed) that make it a special place and justifies it as the second most visited place in Turkey.